Taming the urban griller [Hand Dryers]

The Great Aussie Barbecue can be a sordid affair. Mediocre ingredients are routinely overcooked, then shared, charmlessly, among celebrants long past caring. In truth, there has seldom been anything great about it, until food fashions intervened. Dishes such as pulled pork, smoked brisket, fall-off-the-bone ribs and smoke-infused chickens have emerged as the stars of the barbecue revolution. The minimum requirements for slow-smoked and painstakingly roasted dishes are an old-fashioned Weber kettle, a mountain of charcoal or briquettes, lashings of hickory chips and tolerant neighbours. The following recipes will breathe authentic barbecue personality into dishes unfamiliar to most backyard barbecue vandals - dishes that will help them to return from the dark side and emerge as superheroes of the grill.

Slice about 1 to 2 centimetres from the top (stem end) of a fig and cut a deep cross into the top. Squeeze the bottom of the fig to open up that cross and insert a wedge of the best blue cheese you have to hand - roquefort or gorgonzola are ideal. Then, wrap most of the fig in a strip of good prosciutto, tucking it in, rather than skewering it, and sit the fig on a halo of foil - made by loosely rolling, from corner to corner, a square of foil torn from a standard roll, and twisting into a circle - on a hot gas grill. Drop the lid and cook until the prosciutto crisps, the fig softens and the cheese melts. Eat.

For the dip, crumble a quantity of blue cheese - ideally roquefort, but gorgonzola also works quite well - into Best Foods or Hellman's bottled mayonnaise. Try two large chunks of blue cheese, each bigger than a golf ball, with a cup of mayonnaise. Use a fork to mash the cheese into the mayonnaise, then thin the mixture with a generous squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Mix until smooth. Cover and chill. Prepare a dozen chicken wings (24 segments) by snipping off and discarding the top joints and then dividing them at the main joint. Toss the resulting ''flats and drummies'' in EV olive oil and season well with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Cook them, covered, on a well-oiled gas grill at a temperature over 200C. Turn them after five minutes and again after another five. They will cook in about 15 minutes. Ensure that they have cooked evenly and that all sides are crisp and golden with dark char marks. Prepare a glaze by placing half a stick of butter (125 grams) into a saucepan and squirting Sriracha chilli sauce over it until it is well covered. Heat gently and stir well to emulsify. Place the hot, cooked wings in a large bowl and pour the butter and chilli sauce over, tossing to coat evenly. Lift on to a platter to drain and cool slightly before serving them alongside the dip.


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